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All the Brothers Ride

Just had a rad session at middles. I was talking with this guy who had dedicated the session to his friend that had just passed.  He got a really nice wave and said that he had dedicated it to his friend. I said “ I think it was his gift to you”.  It then made me think of Kenny, Joe, Steve, Scotty, Robby….. I sat there in the water way outside of everyone and looked up and thought “hay guys, come surf with me…ride with me”. All the sudden this lone set wave comes popping up. Right spot at the right time I turn and paddle. Longest wave I have ever had at middles. Felt like Rincon. Three separate cover ups. 400 yard right. I was so tired at the end I couldn’t even kick out. I was wiped. So wiped that I totally forgot about my invitation to the brothers. It wasn’t until I was riding out that I remembered having the thought and asking them. It all was clear. They were riding with me.  January 12, 2021

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